Goodbye Baltimore - Hello ICW

September 30, 2009

After delaying a day for uncomfortably high wind on the Chesapeake, we departed Baltimore and Henderson's Wharf Marina today to head south to Florida. Chesapeake Bay was delightfully calm, and we made it to Solomons by 1645 and into took a mooring at Zahnizer's Marina. There were several boats anchored out, apparently waiting for Trawler Fest to start on Friday. A HUGE boat at Zahnizer's dock was the Argyll at 150 feet and 4 decks above the waterline. She is huge, and our stern was about 40 feet off her port side. I'm sure other boats in the harbor would have had difficulty seeing "little" Sanderling against the backdrop of this monstrosity! Check out "Argyll luxury yacht charter" to see it for yourself.

Day: 65.7nm - 9H35M
Trip: 1390.8nm - 234H00M

October 1, 2 & 3, 2009

Departed Solomons at first light (about 0645) immediately after Argyll left her dock. There were a number of other trawlers (as well as other types of boats) departing and all headed south. We were hoping for another good day on Chesapeake Bay, but hoped to at least get south of the Potomac River before encountering some predicted head seas in the lower part of the Bay. As it turns out we had another beautiful day cruising down Chesapeake Bay - at one point in the mid afternoon the water was like glass, something that is very unusual on the bay. We anchored for the night a little after sundown in the Phoebus Channel immediately north of Norfolk. The wind came up a little during the night to give us a little rocking, but nothing like we'd experienced in this location on prior occasions.

The next morning (Octobe 2nd) we took the dinghy 1/4 mile or so to the Army-operated marina at Old Point Comfort to go ashore and tour historic Fort Monroe and see where Jefferson Davis was imprisoned for several years after the Civil War.

In the early afternoon we made a short cruise back around the I-64 tunnel entrance and up the Hampton River to an anchorage just north of a number of large marinas and under a bridge with 29 feet clearance. We had no sooner dropped anchor when we saw Argyll (the luxury yacht from Solomons) pulling up to the town docks. She didn't dominate the waterfront like she did in Solomons, but it was still hard to miss! We checked out the free dinghy dock at the town docks, walked around a little, then went back to Sanderling for the rest of the afternoon and evening.

On October 3rd friends Norm and Nancy came aboard around noon. We caught up with each others' goings on since we saw them last February in Florida, got them settled in to their quarters in the V-berth, and then went ashore for dinner at a local restaurant.

Day: 3.3nm - 0H35M
Trip:

October 4, 5 & 6, 2009 - The Great Dismal Swamp

October 4th began our trip into the IntraCoastal Waterway (ICW) which will take us all the way to our home in Florida. We started at 0830 after breakfast and cruised across Hampton Roads and past the sprawling Navy base at the northern end of the Elizabeth River. There were a number of aircraft carriers, cruisers and submarines docked at the base, in addition to several Military Sealift Command (MSC) ships taking on cargo. We then passed mile zero of the ICW and continued up the Elizabeth River. We stopped for fuel (260 gallons) at the Ocean Marine Center (known for it's good fuel prices) where we also filled our water tanks. We then continued up the Elizabeth River through Norfolk and Portsmouth, Virginia, with their very active waterfronts. Even though it was Sunday there were a few tugs and other boats out performing their day's work. We seemed to be one of a few pleasure boats heading south. The bridges were all open, although we did have to wait 10-15 minutes at one highway bridge for a tug to position some work barges against the fenders where they were working.

We arrived at Deep Creek Lock leading into the Great Dismal Swamp at 1305, and were let into the lock at 1325; by 1400 we had been raised eight feet to the level of the canal and had our lines tied to Elizabeth's Dock just inside the northern lock in the Great Dismal Swamp.

We walked around the park adjacent to Elizabeth's Dock, walked to the small town and purchased a few groceries, then walked back to Sanderling where we just took it easy for the rest of the afternoon. We then walked back into town in the evening for dinner at a Mexican restaurant.

On October 5th we departed Elizabeth's Dock in order to go through the bridge about a mile from the lock at 0830 when it opened for a northbound boat departing the canal. We continued 15 miles through the straight and narrow canal, with mostly swamp land and a few farm fields on the west (right/starboard) side, and a few trees and highway 17 on the east (left/port) side. We arrived at the North Carolina Visitors' Center and tied to their free dock at 1125. We had a very enjoyable day there, exploring the area around the Visitors' Center and the nearby North Carolina Dismal Swamp Park. A floating swing bridge leads from the visitors' center across the canal to the park and an extremely well-presented display of the history and other things related to the canal and the Great Dismal Swamp. We walked the boardwalk out into the swamp, and talked with the park rangers.

On Tuesday, October 6th, we departed the visitors' center at 0950 and arrived at the South Mills Bridge and Lock at 1035 where we tied to the bridge fender to wait the opening of the bridge at 1100. By 1055 we were through the bridge and into the lock. By 1120 we had been lowered eight feet to the level of the Pasquotank River on the south end of the canal and were heading out of the canal to Elizabeth City, about 16 miles down the river from the South Mills Lock. By 1400 we had lines to the free bulkhead at Elizabeth City - the City of Hospitality. Believe me, this city lives up to its motto. We had no sooner tied up than a lady from the Welcome Center had come to the boat and was telling us about the area, it's many restaurants, art gallery, museum, and the wine and cheese party they throw for boaters at 1630 in the afternoon. We had plenty of time to walk through the museum just across the street from where we are located, and still attend the wine and cheese event where we met a number of other boaters who had arrived recently. Then we went to dinner at a local restaurant where we've eaten when we've been here before.

Unfortunately, the weather forecast for Wednesday for Albermarle Sound, which we must pass across on our way south, was not good for comfortable cruising. Another complication was the fact that the Alligator River Bridge, across the northern end of the Alligator River, was being worked on and wouldn't be opening until 1700 on Wednesday. We checked the forecast several times throughout the day and into the evening, and it didn't get any better, so we decided to remain in Elizabeth City for another day until weather improved on Albermarle Sound and the bridge repairs had been completed. As it turns out, only one boat left on Wednesday heading south.

Day: 23,6sm - 3H10M
Trip: 1714.6sm - 259H30M